Nine days after leaving Kathmandu, we established base camp (4910 meters/16,112 feet). We found a perfect little sandy bench on which to spread our 5 sleeping tents and the larger kitchen, dining and storage tents. This little bit of paradise, facing south and capturing the sun’s warmth from 8 am to 5:30 pm, is just 50 feet above the Barun River, and 11,000 feet below Makalu’s summit.
No one has ever camped here. This sense of the remote seems to be a theme for the expedition. On the trek, we only saw 14 other travelers. This is in great contrast to the popular treks, like the trek to Everest Base Camp, which tens of thousands of trekkers and climbers will visit this year. Makalu is just too remote and the trail is too difficult.
We were lucky, the road was just extended as far as the village of Chinchilla, saving us two days of hot and dusty trekking. Our gear was hauled up that road by a farm tractor, dragging a home-made trailer. We sat in the back of a low torque Indian Jeep, manufactured specifically for steep, rutted, and sometimes slippery roads like this one being carved into the Himalaya. The seats were slats of wood and grab bars were squeezed tightly or you’d be bounced out the back.
Once we crawled out of the jeep, choking on red dust, the trek unfolded itself as a series of vistas and villages, each more interesting than the last. We passed a long afternoon, with monsoon-like rains, in the village of Num.
From Num we dropped to the lowest point on the trek, a swinging bridge over the Arun River (at 1600 feet above sea level). From that bridge, Makalu’s summit is 26,000 feet above us.
The trail climbed steeply from there for 4 days, crossing a handful of 14,000 foot passes, still buried in snow. The trekking has been beautiful, and so very different from the treks leading to the other 8000 meter peaks. We woke up early each day, hoping to capture the early morning light on the next twist of the trail. Jungle became birch forests which lead to pine forests and finally to the open alpine tundra. Imagine a Yosemite Valley, with its rock buttresses now capped by glaciated peaks, throw in the remoteness and you can start to imagine the beauty of the upper Makalu trek. 